What are the Different Volumes of Hair Color Developer and their Uses
A hair color developer is basically hydrogen peroxide in a cream base. It is a color activator that helps achieve long-lasting hues. According to Colorist Barbara Forgione, “Hair dye without a developer is like cooking without heat.” The volumes of hydrogen peroxide are chosen based on the desired outcome.
For example, most salon experts use 20 volume hair developer with permanent hair colors, whereas 5-volume with temporary dyes. Simply put, the higher the volume, the stronger the lightening action. This blog discusses the use of different volumes of hair color developers so you can keep your color-enthusiast clients happy and satisfied.
Uses of Hair Color Developer
Let’s start with the basics. Hydrogen peroxide present in a developer lifts the cuticle and allows for maximum color deposit. It removes the natural color pigments from hair and makes way for new hues. It expertly activates the dye molecules during the mixing process.
You need a potent developer to ease the hair coloring process. When mixed with dye, it creates an oxidation reaction, leading to the opening of the cuticle layer. Dye molecules penetrate through the cuticle, reach the cortex, and deposit tints evenly for a stunning finish. The chemical reaction also leads to the formation of meta-dye. Thus, it is recommended to use non-metallic bowls and accessories while coloring.
- Color activation: A developer activates the components of hair coloring cream, allowing for a quick, effortless deposition process.
- Consistency: The rich, velvety, and creamy consistency of a developer ensures easy mixing and application.
- Color deposition: It helps distribute the dye molecules evenly throughout the desired area, creating a homogeneous look.
- Removal of existing color: When combined with a hair dye, the developer releases oxygen. The oxidation reaction opens the cuticle and strips off existing color pigments.
- Long-lasting result: A hair color developer helps the new color molecules penetrate the cuticle layer and bond inside the cortex of strands.
- Desired lift: Different volumes of developers provide different levels of lift. It all comes down to your client’s needs.
Different Volumes of Hair Color Developer
It is not easy to achieve flawless results if you are unsure about the different volumes of hair color developers. To help you get started or clear some doubts, we tapped experts from all over for a brief overview.
5 volume hair developer (1.5%)
It is a deposit-only developer used commonly with toners, glazes, and semi-permanent hair dyes. The 5 volume developer does not penetrate the cuticle or remove existing color pigments. Use it to effectively deposit tints on the strands for a temporary effect. Also known as a no-lift developer, it supports color delivery without lifting the cuticle.
10 volume hair developer (3%)
The 10 volume hair developer contains 3% hydrogen peroxide. It slightly penetrates the cuticle for color deposition. Experts consider it to be the default developer for toning and color correction. It balances out unwanted undertones and boosts overall shine. You can also choose this developer if your client wants to darken the existing color by one or two shades, like from medium brown to dark brown.
20 volume hair developer (6%)
Almost all salons are loaded with bottles of 20 volume hair developer. This is because of its versatility and moderate effect on the cuticle layer. This developer opens the cuticle enough to enable satisfactory color deposition without damaging the mane’s internal structure. It is the ideal developer used with most permanent hair colors to achieve two to three levels of lift. It can also be used for root touch-ups and gray coverage.
30 volume hair developer (9%)
The 30 volume hair developer is a high-lift product containing 9% hydrogen peroxide. Such high volume causes a quick oxidation reaction when mixed with permanent hair dyes. It is used to dramatically change hair color up to four levels. This developer is also used with bleaching or lightening solutions for maximum lift. Note that it should be processed in an open-air setting (without foils) to avoid over-processing and scalp irritation.
40 volume hair developer (12%)
It is primarily used with permanent hair dyes and high-lift colors. The 40-volume developer contains a high concentration of hydrogen peroxide, so it should be used with utmost caution. Salon specialists consider this formula to address exceptional coloring challenges. It is formulated for strong lifting applications only.
Final Words
The right concentration of a developer really matters in the hair color industry. A little mistake can lead to faulty hues, uneven tones, or an entirely different outcome. But a thorough consultation can save you from these hassles. It helps you understand your client’s hair type and needs. Do they have fine or thick hair, long or short strands, and natural or previously treated hair? These questions play a significant role in determining the developer volume, type of hair color, mixing ratio, processing time, and more.
Pro Tip: Always use non-metallic accessories for hair coloring. Metallic bowls and brushes can lead to an oxidation reaction, altering the properties of the mixture. Hence, it is recommended to utilize plastic bowls and silicone whisks for mixing and durable plastic brushes for application. Also, avoid mixing color and developer with a hair brush as the contents may get stuck in the bristles.
FAQs
1. What is the mixing ratio for 20 volume hair developer?
If you are using Moehair products, the mixing ratio is 1:1.5. This means 1 part of the coloring cream and 1.5 parts of 20 volume hair developer.
2. What is the processing time for 10 volume hair developer?
The processing time for a 10 volume hair developer is 30 to 40 minutes, depending on the desired result.
3. Why do you need to perform a strand test?
A strand test is the first step of the hair coloring process. It helps determine the total processing time and type of developer. A strand test is the first step of the hair coloring process. It helps determine the total processing time and type of developer.
4. What is the purpose of 30 volume hair developer?
A 30 volume hair developer contains 9% hydrogen peroxide. It provides three to four levels of lift.
5. Are Moehair Hair Color Developers cruelty-free?
Yes, our hair color developers are 100% cruelty-free. They have not been tested on animals.
